In the past I’ve ham-handed my attempts at flare removal. Some have turned out reasonably okay and others not so much. I recently learned a method involving an inverted curves adjustment that does a nice job. Of course, this image is fairly clean so less challenging than others might be. But at least for a first attempt I am pleased.
Mount Monadnock in New Hampshire from The Patten in Shelburne, MA. May 2015
Can you see where it was?
Looks like it would be a warm day… ‘red in the morning…’ and all that. I’d guess the flare was below Monadnock in front of the ridge of trees?
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It was a surprisingly warm day. A little warmer than this weekend is predicted to be but who knows, we may eclipse that. Yes, that’s the spot. Guess it’s back to the drawing board. 🙂
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It is very faint, I must say!
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I’d like to think that had I not mentioned it no one would have noticed.
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Lots of particulate matter in the sky, resulting in the beautiful red color.
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All those clouds and whatever was floating in the air did offer some brilliant color. Thanks for commenting, Alessandra.
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Better a new trick than a new tick.
Can you add a link to the original so we can see the difference?
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There will be plenty of new ticks as time goes by.
I’ll post the original later today after work.
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Not a big deal like some flares but not anything I wanted to include in an image.
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You’re in luck. My old eyes see a beautiful landscape photograph.
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Thanks, Wally. My old eyes judged the flare as gone. 🙂
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I can’t believe that software actually has filters designed to ADD LENS FLARE to images. C’mon folks, our eyes don’t do that, so kudos for wanting a beautiful image to look NATURAL. Nicely done.
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Yeah. Lens flare is not reality so why add it? I guess some people consider it an asset but I certainly don’t and have discarded many an image because I didn’t know how to get rid of it. Thanks, Bob!
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I’m not sure what lens flare is, but your photo is inviting and warm, and pleasant to look at. That’s good enough for me.
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Lens flare happens most often when the camera is aimed directly at the sun. Rather than the light going directly to the sensor, or in the old days film, it bounces around inside the camera and causes a reflection of the sun to light up elsewhere in the image.Here’s one example. There is one way to deal with that by sticking your thumb or other finger into the frame blocking the sun then taking another frame with the sun and combining the two as layers in Photoshop and removing the flare that way. Another way involves using curves.
Here’s the image before my curves layer. The flare in this is minimal compared to the example I linked to but still undesirable.
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For whatever reason, the first time I tried to post the image directly in the reply didn’t work so I liked it. Then when I shared it with Steve is posted. Here’s another try.
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Nicely done. I wasn’t able to find the corrected spot. I love the mountain layers in the background. A beautiful photo.
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Thanks, Todd. It’s subtle. I posted the uncleaned image in a few comments above.
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I haven’t heard of an inverted curve technique for that, how does it work? The nearest I heard of is a “paint with color” technique, sampling from the area next to the flare. I thought your results were good.
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I think that, had I not mentioned it, the slight remnant would not be noticed. Here’s a video that explains a few processes much better than I can. Basically the curves method is painting the flare out.
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Beautiful and no, I can’t see where it was. I’ll have to bookmark that link (above) and give it a try sometime.
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I don’t mind spending time processing so prefer this to the old thumb from above trick. If I hadn’t mentioned it I don’t think anyone would have noticed as I tried to keep it looking like the fog everywhere else.
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